And finally—after all these years—Cris and I were surfing together. Properly. We hadn’t shared waves like that since 2017, back in Moliets, France.

That feeling?
Unmatched.

I realized in that moment. Surfing isn’t just about the wave you dream of. It’s the energy, the people, the place.

That’s what makes it whole.

As a surfer, you always have a few places living rent-free in the back of your mind. Locations that aren’t really places anymore, just ideas. You don’t think about food, cities, or culture—just threading your way along a coastline and finally riding that wave you’ve talked about for years.

For me, that place was Morocco.

To be young and totally unaware of how stupid you are in front of people. We couldn´t have cared less about anything or anyone and certainly not the consequences.

That seemed to be the normal back in those days.